Let’s clarify a few things: there isn’t too much difference between a saltwater pool and a chlorine pool setup. Also, saltwater pools are not maintenance-free!
Routine pool maintenance will cover about 90% of saltwater pool owners.
The main difference? Well, Salt! That and the saltwater generator that makes all the magic happen.
Whether you’ve just converted to a saltwater pool or are a new pool owner, these saltwater pool maintenance tips should help to get you started.
Saltwater Pools Still Use Chlorine to Sanitize
A saltwater pool is still a chlorine pool. Salt is another type of chlorine that can increase your free chlorine (FC) levels.
Without getting too scientific, a saltwater generator is connected to your pool system that converts the salt you put in the pool into chlorine. Instead of daily or weekly chlorine additions to increase your FC levels, the saltwater generator constantly produces chlorine when running!
Chlorine is Still Needed With a Saltwater Pool
Even with a saltwater pool, there will undoubtedly be times where chlorine additions are still needed.
For example, most saltwater generators won’t operate when water is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Initial pool openings may require liquid chlorine to start.
Also, saltwater generators will not help with water issues that require shocking the pool. Additional chlorine will be needed so always have some on hand.
Using the Right Salt
The chemical makeup of salt is Sodium Chloride. While salt can be found in a variety of places, you’ll want salt that is suitable for pools.
Typically, the sodium chloride content should be, at minimum, 99% pure. This ensures the salt that is added doesn’t include any additives or inhibitors
99.9% pure, certified USP-Grade salt produced specifically for swimming pool chlorine generators
Salt used for water softeners is also fine to use. Keep in mind, while crystals and pellets will work, they will dissolve much slower.
Test For Salt Levels to Know How Much to Add
How much salt you’ll need to add to the pool will depend on how much is already present. While you may not have added salt yourself, many pool chemicals contain salt, like calcium chloride and most forms of chlorine.
Testing your pool will be the only way to determine how much salt you currently have. It’s recommended to have a testing kit that includes sodium chloride testing, like the Taylor K-2006-SALT.
A separate salt tester can be used if you already have a reliable test kit.
Drop test for sodium chloride (salt) pool owners.
Generally, salt level measurements do not require exact reading levels. Being close enough is OK. Most salt readings provide wider ranges than other levels.
How Much Salt Should Be Added to Your Pool?
The pool’s salt levels should be between 3,000 and 4,000 ppm. This is generally between the preferred salt levels of most saltwater generators, but you should always check your operator’s manual for a more exact recommendation.
Use our pool salt calculator to find how much salt you need to add!
Adding Salt to The Pool
Like most chemical additions, salt should be added slowly in the pool’s deep end. Use your pool brush to disturb salt particles that fall to the pool’s surface to make them dissolve more quickly.
Your pool pump should be running at this time. Typically, it should run continuously for 24 hours to ensure proper distribution.
Whether you are dumping in salt for the first time or you only need a handful of bags, always take your time. Test in between large salt dosages.
The only way to remove salt from the pool is to drain and refill water, so you want to make sure you don’t dump in too much salt that goes way beyond the recommended levels.
Keep Water Chemistry Levels Balanced
When using a saltwater generator, the recommended pool chemistry levels will change slightly.
Cyanuric acid (CYA) can go slightly above the recommended levels, between 60-90 ppm. Since saltwater pools constantly generate chlorine, you can afford higher CYA “protection.”
For free chlorine (FC), your generator should maintain an FC of around 4-5 ppm. This will ensure properly sanitized water at all times.
Some saltwater pool owners notice their pH levels rise a little more frequently, as the salt to chlorine reaction naturally has a higher-than-normal pH. It’s recommended to keep pH between 7.2-7.8, which is mostly in line with a chlorine pool.
Total alkalinity (TA) will be pH’s buffer like normal, so keep that in the 50-90 ppm range and let pH find it’s balance.
Calcium hardness (CH) should be tested and maintained at the “normal” recommended levels based on the type of pool surface you have. A saltwater generator is another piece of equipment, so too much calcium can plug up the generator and cause damage. Make sure it’s always level!
Cleaning The Saltwater Generator Cell
Maintenance of your saltwater pool will also include the generator’s cell. This should be cleaned at least once a swim season. If you live in a climate where the pool is open year-round, an inspection should be done every three months.
You’ll want to check for any white, crusty buildup in the cell plates. If you need to clean it out, first check your operator manual for general directions on how to clean it.
Typically, cleaning involves using a water-down muriatic acid solution or just spraying it down if the buildup isn’t too crusty.
In general, any buildup could indicate a problem with the balance of your pool which should be fixed.
Saltwater Pools and Corrosion
Yes, it is true saltwater pools will include more salt than a chlorine pool. Shocker! But let’s have perspective.
Ocean water has salt contents of about 35,000 ppm. A single tear will have about 9,000 ppm of salt. And, as mentioned previously, a pool should be around 3,000-4,000 ppm.
Corrosion can and does happen in pools. But it’s highly unlikely that the saltwater generator will be the root cause of the issue. In most cases, the improper balance of your pool, like a low pH or high calcium, will be the culprit.
No matter the type of pool, staying on top of testing and keeping the water balanced will always be the number one priority.
Winterizing Cell
When it is time to close the pool for the season, your saltwater generator cell should be included on your closing checklist.
As mentioned, most saltwater generators will not run when the water is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (double-check with your operator manual).
Normal closing procedures, including blowing out all the pipe lines, should be followed. Freezing water can and will crack the cell just like pipes.
While the cells can withstand freezing temperatures, almost all manufacturers offer a bypass cell that you can swap out in the winter to preserve your salt cell.
They are essentially replicas that you can replace in the line. This way, you can safely store it indoors, potentially extending the cell’s life.
Ongoing Costs
The bulk of the costs of converting to a saltwater pool is the upfront payment of the generator itself. Most salt cells run between $700 to $2,000, depending on your pool’s size and brand of choice.
You can calculate an ROI based on how much chlorine you buy throughout a swim season. It may take a few years, but a saltwater pool should save you money in the long run.
The only seasonal cost should be the salt. After the initial dosage, a few bags should be all you need to get it up and running during an opening.
Lastly, the cells themselves do have a shelf life as well. It’s hard to say how long it will last, but anecdotally, they should last between 5 to 7 years. Factors like hours of use and water balance can shorten or extend its lifespan.
Most models will allow you to just replace the cell rather than buying an entire unit.
Saltwater Pool Maintenance is Not Much Different
If there is a difference with the maintenance of a saltwater pool, it’s not having to continuously buy and lug gallons of chlorine to your home.
But, overall, it should be treated like any other pool. Algae will not care if your water is a little more saltier than normal!
Just stay in top of the testing, balance your water, and enjoy your saltwater pool!